At Haesindang Park, there are penis wind chimes and totem poles, veiny canons made of iron and a row of fully clothed life-size statues masturbating as their dogs look on.
"The only remedy for this malady is found in a man’s pants," said Baba Jela after peering into the coffee cup.
It was once said that those who died in San Juan de Dios went straight to heaven.
Usually given the names of women, these ungainly buses are baptized by village priests with a few drops of holy water.
This is no political rally, no carnival nor religious pilgrimage. This rumbling caravan of cars, bikes and people is a funeral.
Scarlet neck-ties. Hammers and sickles. Pendulous red curtains. President Hu Jintao summarizing an entire decade in a single speech.